I first came to Korea in 1979 in the Peace Corps
Stayed in the rural countryside
Where I was one of four non-Koreans
Had to speak Korean to survive

Stayed on in a variety of jobs
Including diplomatic service
I last lived there in 1993.

Non-Korean food was hard to get
Outside of the GI ghettos
English speakers were few
And the country was not foreign-friendly

There were few foreign residents
Mostly American service members
Some missionary types
Diplomatic corps
A few English teachers
A few expat business people

Most woman quit after marriage
As it was a male-dominated society

In the rural countryside
No one knew a woman's name

They were referred
to as so and so "mom"

Or so and so wife,
Or the generic aunt,
or grandmother

Public transit was just getting going
But traffic was not too bad
Few people could afford cars

Back then the old Korea was still there
And it was a very different place and time
Going through the transition
to the country it has become

- I came back to retire in Korea in 2016 and have been here off and on since then


Today's Korea is a very different place

The rural countryside is deserted
Wilderness areas are coming back
Even wildlife is coming back
In the mountain outback regions

50 percent of the public
Live in the Seoul metro area
Including Kyeongi province
And Incheon city where I reside.

Public transit is among the best
In the world.
Internet fast and cheap
Everywhere connected

Highways are decent but overcrowded
The KTX train is fast and convenient
The Incheon airport one of the best

The choices for food are much better
Used to be it was almost impossible
To find non-Korean food
Outside the GI ghetto towns.

Now it is everywhere
Even saw a Mexican restaurant
In a suburban Busan neighborhood.

In the end
Koreans should be proud
Of all that they have accomplished.

I remain optimistic
That someday the two Koreans
Will become one again
And that they will continue
To advance and grow

But the essence of Korea will remain